Pool pumps filters and chlorinators
Pool pumps and filters
Motors typically last an average of eight years before needing either rebuilding or replacing. Noisy, screeching front and/or rear bearings will let you know when you need to do something.
A common problem is the threaded fitting carrying water out of the pump shrinking an allowing water to drip, run and then spray. This can be replaced with a high temp fitting to prevent its re-occurance. Water may leak from a worn out mechanical seal. This is between the wet end and the dry end (motor) of the pump. This mechanical shaft seal should be replaced.
Make sure the pump basket is clean and properly positioned. Some types of pump strainer basket that locks into place to prevent the basket from floating and causing the pump to cavitate, or starve for water. You can find that the pump basket is cracked and it is allowing debris to clog the pump's impeller. If the pump basket is cracked or damaged, it should be replaced. To check the impeller, turn off the motor, to remove the pump basket and reach into the volute and feel if it is clogged with debris. If you cannot feel for sure, you may need to remove the motor from the pump to properly inspect the impeller. Most times you need only remove a clamp band to separate the motor from the pump.
Inside of the pump's motor are a front bearing and a rear bearing they are sealed and cannot be re-packed or re-lubricated. They are replaced when they begin to scream and screech. Bearings can become damaged when the pump has run dry and overheated, or if the pump is put under high loads, just replace the motor. Try finding the cause of the obstruction that is blocking water flow into the pump. It may be the impeller. Noisy pumps can be the sound of components striking one another. The impeller can, on stub shaft models come loose and hit against the impeller housing. The internal fan can break and hit against the motor side. Both instances will resolve themselves.
First check that you have power. The breaker must be on, time-clock on, all switches on. Use an electric meter to be sure the voltage is correct. Check all electrical connections, to see that they are tight and not corroded or shorted out by bugs or debris. The use of a meter or test lamp will check this with certainty. If there is power going all the way to the motor, the motor may have become shorted across its windings.
Low voltage can be a cause of a humming but not starting motor. New motors are wired 220volts, so if you hook it up to 110volts, it will only hum, or cyde. One of the pwer leads may be loose, or shorted. Check with a Multimeter to verify the correct voltage with a variance of 10% allowed.
If the motor runs for a short while, shuts itself off, and turns itself back o later, it may be overheating. All motors can run hot. A cyding motor may indicate that the thermal overload is kicking it off. If motor was just replaced make sure that the electrical supply connections are correct ad the wire size is correct for the voltage it is carrying. Low voltage can cause overheating. Inadequate ventilation can cause overheating, make sure that the air vents are unobstructed. Older motors that suddenly begin to overheat will need to be replaced.
Salt water chlorinators
The eco friendly way to sanitize the water in your pool is with a salt water chlorinator. There are a number of models available from manual systmes to self cleaning units. They are mostly suited for the majority of swimming pools no matter how big or small. Can be used with all kinds of pool surfaces like (fibreglass, vinyl, tiles and concrete).
safe and chemical free | therapeutic |insect resistant | no red eyes | soft on skin | eco friendly | self cleaning
Discuss your individual needs for your swimming pool chlorinator with one of our consultants.